How To Pull Up Anchor - Mega Yacht 101

Terrapin is anchored in the Dutch side of the lagoon on St Maarten, not purposefully, but coincidentally, in front of the mega yacht docks at Palapa Marina (there are bigger yachts on Snoopy Island, where Steve Jobs' boat was moored, but these are still mega – as in over 150+ ft.)

When the mega yachts anchor here, it is “med-moor” style, derived from the method of anchoring in the Mediterranean Sea where they tie their stern to the dock and then put out a starboard anchor and a port anchor.  This helps get as many boats as possible in the smallest amount of space. 

This morning, while we enjoyed our breakfast of fresh croissants from the local patisserie, Baxter, Kala and I watched closely as the mega yacht “Seven Sins” pulled up their anchor.  

Step 1 – Hire two divers and a dinghy.  This could be included in the dockage fee at the marina but we can’t be sure.  Maybe this is a negotiation point.

Step 2 – The diver team marks the anchor chain with white buoys.  If a small boat is in the way – tell them they need to move.  Terrapin was close but we lucked out.

Step 3 – Diver team ties an inflatable buoy to the anchor on the bottom to mark the anchor.

Step 4 – They use an air tank and inflate the buoy to mark the anchor location and lift it off the bottom.

Step 5 – The divers signal the crew on the deck of the mega yacht (via loud whistle) to turn on anchor wash pumps (hopefully this is sea water) and start pulling up the chain.  The divers then hold on as the buoy slowly moves towards the yacht.

Step 6 – Important:  Avoid crossing the opposite anchor chain(s) of the mega yachts next to your yacht.

Step 7 – Crew resumes pulling up the anchor until the mega anchor is stored tightly on the bow with now only lines (aka ropes) holding the yacht to the dock and the boats next to them.

Step 8 – Wait for the bridge to open as you are essentially “trapped” in the lagoon except for the 6 times per day the bridge opens.

Step 9 – You are free to enjoy the day until you find another marina in a couple of hours.

This is similar but very different to how we pull up our anchor, though we usually move our boat forward to meet the anchor – they can’t do that or they would take about five other mega yachts with them.  To tell you the truth, I’m not sure it’s worth all the trouble of owning a mega yacht.  We’ll just stick with Terrapin – since we have the same views anyway.

Diver team attaching white buoy to indicate anchor chain line.  This is for the boat fourth from the right.  Kala supervising and noting their proximity to our boat.

Inflatable buoy indicating anchor

The signal to start pulling in anchor.  Again, Kala ready to rally if they get too close.

Straightening out the other chains - don't want a cluster.

All clear - leaving the dock for the 10:30 bridge opening (they started pulling up the anchor at 8:15)

Panorama

After working hard on the boat for ten days straight, we were looking forward to getting out of the boat yard, off the boat, and doing something fun - a little exercise to get the blood flowing would be good too.  Mark on S/V Sea Life organized 14 cruisers to go on a "Hike from Hell.  Five hours of great, mud-sliding, stinging nettle-avoiding, spectacular viewing was just what we were looking for.

We met so many people from all over the world, including South Africa, Bermuda, Germany, Israel, and Australia.  In fact, we were the only cruisers from the U.S.  This sailing life really offers perspective in how we may all seem different but in the end, we are all very similar.

We walked through the streets to get to the trail.  Notice we are all very good single-filers.

We climbed up...

We climbed down...

And back up again...

Until we were sure the planes could see us (this really is a beacon for planes - see next airport photo to see how steep the climb out is from the runway)

We left the dock this morning and are now currently anchored right at the end of the runway above Baxter's right shoulder.

Mission(s) Accomplished

We arrived in St Maarten knowing we would be at the dock for approximately 10 days and we would have numerous projects on the to-do list.  We have been here for nine and will probably be casting off the lines this weekend.

We are proud of the teamwork we put forward and all the items we crossed off the list (with the help of others, of course…)

To mention a few of the projects:
*  All chain plates removed, replaced, and reinstalled.
*  New standing rigging.
*  New staysail furler (this is a HUGE difference for our offshore sailing plan - adding a smaller (staysail) sail for heavy weather conditions.  The benefit of the furler is we will not have to go forward on the bow to raise the sail - we can do so from the cockpit.
*  Changed the luff on the staysail from "hanks" to a bolt rope so it can be put on a furler.
*  I made spray cloths for the life lines.  These help keep salt water out of the cockpit while offshore.  Our previous spray cloths were old and still had an outline of old racing numbers.
*  A print from Trellis Bay, BVI framed and hung on wall to make the cabin feel cozy.
*  Pins replaced in main furler (huge repair as we have had issues with this and were nervous about it in heavy weather.)
*  New dorade box made and wood maker gave us a new dorade - for free (usually about $600.)
*  Hydraulic back stay seal replaced and tested for tension.
*  Rigging inspected and tuned.
*  New mast boot.
*  Grab rails on deck sanded and re-varnished.

BEFORE:  Old spray cloths (above the name.)  You can see the racing number (321…)

AFTER:  New "Molly-made" spray cloths.  Not perfect, but better.

BEFORE:  Old chain plates removed and ready for inspection.

AFTER:  Ohhhh Shiny new chain plates.

BEFORE:  Deck grab rails with peeling varnish and exposed teak.

AFTER:  Deck grab rails after 5 coats of varnish.  

Lagoonies - the bar next door to the boat yard where beer is $1 - Diet coke is even more than that.  

North Sails St Maarten - Tropical Sail Loft (just happens to be above Lagoonies).  They helped us out with the staysail conversion and extra material for the spray cloths.  They also offered very valuable free advice.

Our home for the last 10 days - FKG dock.  We moved around a few (5 times to be exact) times but the same general area. (Steve will be happy to see the a/c running!!!)

New polished chainplate (right side of frame) and print we picked up in Trellis Bay, BVI which we had framed in St Marteen.

We still have some clean up to do on the bedding and stantion but we love the shiny look of the new rigging!

Chain Plates

Chain plates are the long rectangular metal plates that hold the mast and rigging on a sailboat in place.  As ours are 32 years old, it was in our best interest to have them inspected while the mast had been pulled. 

Baxter spent several hours removing all of the chain plates and the 10 bolts/nuts/washers per plate - most of them in corners of lockers, over the shower or in other places that are difficult to access. 

Once the chain plates were out, we visually inspected them and aside from some rust and grime, they seemed to be okay.  We were excited!  Baxter performing the labor himself saved us a couple thousand dollars and then if they turned out to be in good condition with no pitting or cracks, we wouldn’t need to replace them.  We asked the rigging shop to polish and dye test the plates.  We came back from lunch and Arthur, the rigger, said “Hey Baxter, can I show you something?” Doh!  That is never good.  Glad we are not the gate keepers for chain plates.  As it turns out – they all have to be replaced.  They didn’t even have to dye test them to see the corrosion. 

After we managed to swallow that difficult pill, the yard came by to let us know our mast was going up the next morning, which means we would need to get the new plates from the shop, rebed (seal) them in the deck and then screw all of them back in those difficult areas – before 8 am.  Not a problem.  Except when they don’t hand you the plates until 5:30pm.  Yeah – it was probably good to keep all impressionable children away from our hatches as Baxter hammered and ratcheted as fast as he could.

Before 8 am, true to their motis operandis, the yard was ready to go.  Crane was on it’s way to re-step the mast (put the mast back on the boat) and thankfully Baxter had all the preparations complete. 

We now have shiny new rigging that makes Terrapin even stronger and gives us confidence and helps us sleep better on every watch. 

Starboard side without chainplates.

The old chainplates. Once polished they showed a lot of pitting.

New pretty chainplate.

The starboard cap shroud chainplate finished.

The nuts and bolts for the chainplates. We bought good quality at Budget Marine here in St. Maarten.

Sint Maarten

This small little island in the northeast Caribbean is actually two different countries - One Dutch, One French.  Click here for more details about the origin.  After we explored the french side from Marigot Bay, it was time to give Terrapin a facelift.

We bought Terrapin with original standing rigging - the metal wires that keep the mast up.  It is typically recommended that rigging be replaced every 15 years…our boat is 32 years old, so it might be time.  The rigging may last another 30 years, but who wants to gamble with that bet?  Needless to say, we are back to living in a boat yard.  It is only temporary so we can deal with the dirty dock, disgusting water, and the fact that something huge seems to be missing down below (the mast.)

None the less, it gives us time to explore Sint Maarten and work on boat projects.  Baxter has already worked on the anchor chain, removed the chain plates (the plates that screw into the boat and attach the rigging to the hull), taken off the main sail and genoa (with the tremendous help from Tom and Sabrina on Honey Ryder…thank you, thank you, thank you!!) and we removed the boom so the yard could remove the mast.   There are quite a few other items on the list, depending how long we will be here.  When we are plugged into power and have the ability to run to the store, it is nice to cover as many things as possible.

Living on a dock can be tough, but we look forward to the progress we'll make and the rewards for our efforts.

Dutch St Maarten - home to mega mega mega yachts.  The "small" ones are probably 100 feet.

Going through the Simpson Bay bridge.  Openings are stressful - you have to be quick and ready or the bridge could close and not re-open for 8 more hours.

"Venus" - Steve Jobs' boat.  We saw her in the BVI too - do you think they are following us?

Terrapin - temporarily a power boat (no mast)

Lifting the mast off…the blue spar tite near Baxter's (red shirt) right shoulder is usually below deck.

Precarious position - please don't drop it, please don't drop it!

Our current exit off the boat.  Climb over the bow pulpit (metal rail) with foot on anchor roller and then jump to cleat without falling in the smeggy, nasty water.

Oui! Oui!

St. Martin (the french side of the island) is very euro and we are diggin’ it.  Most everyone has a French accent and you are lucky if they understand your English.  Unfortunately, the six years I spent in French class only allow me enough to say “Je parle francais un peu” (I speak French a little.) Usually, that's when the person I’m talking to gives up, rolls their eyes, and just starts speaking English.

For the gourmet foodies out there, this place is a cheese and jambon (ham) mecca!!  Too bad, we opt out on both (the whole vegan thing is really in your face in a place like this.)  We will have to stick with the Caribbean-creole veggie variety that is also everywhere around here and just as yummy.

From a cruiser’s stand point, it’s a very simple island with most everything you need.  Check-in to the French side via a computer, get your passport stamped, they don’t care if we have a dog…there are wi-fi cafes everywhere, grocery store within dinghy walking distance and great chandleries for all the boat projects on your list.  We haven’t even made it to the Dutch side (Sint Maarten) yet….

Shrimpy's - your dinghy dock for all cruising necessities.

Tres Euro

Pomme de Terre (on the red bag)…Isn't that the island from Capt'n Ron?

The bridge to the lagoon from Marigot Bay is currently in pain (En Panne=not working)

Passage Therapy

Over two months have passed since we left the Chesapeake Bay and with all the island hopping around the Virgin Islands, we are out of “shape” for passages.  BVI to St Martin is a simple passage, only 80 miles, only one overnight…we usually don’t bat an eye at such a distance, but we were slightly scarred from our previous squally 12-days on the North Atlantic.  We went out expecting the worst, despite the forecast for less than 15 knots of wind (though still on the nose, of course). 

Everyone (at least 5 people) we have met said this passage “just sucks.” due to usual strong trade winds  from the east and strong current in the Anegada Passage between the BVI and St. Martin. No one said, “Hey, sometimes you get lucky and it’s mellow and you sail…” Since we were expecting the worst, we were able to deal and manage better.  For the first 60 miles, I did feel like a load of wet towels in a small washing machine and had to take a couple of antihistamines to settle my brain.  Poor Kala agreed with me, so I slipped her one as well.  After about midnight, the fuzz started to lift and the passage slowly convinced me things would not be so bad…it was it’s own therapy in a way. 

Our ETA for St Martin was actually sooner than we expected (around 3 am) so we turned off the motor and sailed for about 8 hours back and forth across the rhumb line with lots of traffic (cargo ships, unlit fishing boats and other sailboats making the trip east) in the area and lots of light from a waning moon.  As we pulled into Marigot Bay, the sun was rising over the hills and we were happy to start another beautiful day further south and east in the Caribbean. 

It has been exactly one year since Baxter and I moved out of our house in Utah and decided that we would live aboard the van or the boat full time.  Since then, the boat has changed, the plans have changed, but we have still covered approximately 35,000 land miles, 2,500 sea miles and we are only getting started.  

Sunrise over the east side of St Martin as we pull into the anchorage.

Terrapin in Marigot Bay. (Thanks to Steve for the hat!)